The end is almost in sight! There is so much work in just fitting the drawers to their respective openings but before I do that, I cut and fit all the drawer bottoms. As you can see from the picture I planed a bevel on the underside of the drawer bottom so that it would fit in a groove. I also put a screw in the back side of the drawer. The screw hole is slotted which allows for the drawer bottom to expand and contract with seasonal movement.
Whenever I am building a fine piece, I will do my best to use a slotted screw when it is visible, as opposed to a Philips screw. I know this is hardly visible; underneath the drawer, on the bottom and in the back, but nevertheless I am somewhat compulsive about this little detail! The problem is that slotted screws are slowly disappearing from the shelves of most hardware stores; they are soon to be a thing of antiquity!
I like to use a pair of dividers when marking the placement of the knobs. A measuring tape can often be inaccurate: a pair of dividers never lies!
I often tell folks that I turn on the lathe not because I enjoy it, but because I have to. I sometimes find turning a bit stressful; I prefer to be shaping my wood in a little slower fashion. However, here are a few of the many knobs that I had to turn.
Here is the finished dresser with just one coat of Danish oil on it.
In the next post I am going to tell you about a last-minute change I made 2 hours before I delivered it. Plus I am going to let you know where you can see the dresser in person, so stay tuned!
Read all about Frank’s dresser project progress.
If you want to learn to make this 7 drawer dresser top and more learning straight from Frank himself, sign up for our on campus Four Drawer Dresser course.